Some things you need to know before you begin to remodel your basement.
METAL STUDS
1. For non-load bearing walls, and duct drops (soffits)) use METAL STUDS.
a. They're cheaper, easier to work with and STRAIGHT.
b. You won't get splinters.
j. They are FIREPROOF!
TOOLS NEEDED
1. Aviation snips. Don't use the clunky tin snips that look like great big scissors. Also, make sure you get either Wiss or ProSnips DO NOT (let me repeat for effect) DO NOT buy GreatNeck. You will be fuming after spending 3 or 4 minutes trying to make one cut with your brand new GreatNeck snips and then end up relying on metal fatigue to separate the pieces. Just plunk down the $20 and get the Wiss and you'll never regret it.
2. Screwgun.
Check out this article on screwguns
3. Tape measure.
4. Sharpie.
5. Level. (you can buy one with a magnetic strip that will stick to your metal studs and make plumbing your walls way easier.)
6. Hammer Drill or a Powder Actuated Faster
7. Utility knife.
8. Pencil. (not the pencil your kid has been using in his math class. Leave his stuff alone. you need to get one of the funky squarish ones from the hardware store.) Incidentally, you'll need to swipe the math pencil later when you start to install the baseboards and door casing.
Now, some will argue against metal for various reasons. Let me debunk your myths.
MYTH: "I want wood studs so I can hang pictures." TRUTH: Come on, you know that when your wife has coerced you into hanging pictures she NEVER asks you "where is the stud?".
MYTH: "I can't insulate those." TRUTH: They make insulation 16 inches wide to fit in between the studs.
MYTH: "I can't run romex or use the cheap nail-on boxes from Home Depot." TRUTH: Use a bracket for attaching the boxes, and as for the romex, the studs are pre-drilled for running all the wires you want.It only adds a couple of dollars to the total cost of the project and you are going to save a mountain of time not having to drill holes to run wires.
WOOD STUDS
1. Don't install the vapor barrier OVER the studs. That will allow water vapor to collect on the studs and create a mildew problem. Attach it to the concrete wall with spray adhesive. That will hold it in place while you nail it to the floor joists above you. That reminds me, leave the vapor barrier long enough to roll over both the top and bottom plates. That way, when the spray adhesive wears out, the top and bottom plates will hold the vapor barrier in place.
2. Don't lay the flap of the batting insulation over the edge of the stud where the sheetrock will be fastened. Tuck it INSIDE and then staple it there. The reason for the two preceding suggestions is that you are going to use sheetrock glue to hold the drywall panels on (trust me on this, glue them and you'll save days and days when you come to taping and sanding).
TOOLS NEEDED
1. SkilSaw. Use this kind or you'll regret it. See, the Black and Decker one your wife bought you for Christmas a few years ago
has the blade mounted on the wrong side (unless you're a southpaw) and it's really light. It's just too hard to make straight cuts with the cheap-o saw.
Make the investment. Get the good one. After all, you are saving THOUSANDS of dollars doing this yourself right? And, it's the last saw you'll ever buy. I promise.
2. Nail gun. A framing nailer. You'll also need a box of 16d nails (pronounced 16 penny. Don't go in asking for 16 "d" or you'll look dumb right off the bat).
3. Air compressor.
4. Air hose.
5. Oil.
6. Tape measure. Buy the Craftsman since you'll probably break one before you finish the project and Sears will replace it for free.
7. Sharpie.
8. Level. (you can buy one with a magnetic strip that will stick to your metal studs and make plumbing your walls way easier.)
9. Hammer Drill or a Powder Actuated Faster
10. Utility knife.
11. Pencil. (not the pencil your kid has been using in his math class. Leave his stuff alone. you need to get one of the funky squarish ones from the hardware store.)
Incidentally, you'll need to swipe the math pencil later when you start to install the baseboards and door casing.
VAPOR BARRIER
1. Don't install the vapor barrier OVER the studs. That will allow water vapor to collect on the studs and create a mildew problem.
2. Attach it to the concrete wall with spray adhesive. That will hold it in place while you nail it to the floor joists above you.
3. That reminds me, leave the vapor barrier long enough to roll over both the top and bottom plates. That way, when the spray adhesive wears out, the top and bottom plates will hold the vapor barrier in place.
